Surrey Carpentry

Professional Carpentry & Joinery Service

June 20th, 2009 by admin
Simon Carey - Carpenter & Joiner

Simon Carey - Carpenter & Joiner

Welcome to the Surrey Carpentry website.


For whatever kind of carpentry or joinery work you’re interested in, please click the categories to the right and browse through the work we have done in the past.  Please also feel free to leave a comment or two.

If you have any questions or would like to get in touch to talk about what we can do for you, don’t hesitate to get in touch

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Built-in Cabin Bed with Drawers, Guildford, Surrey

Built-in Childrens Cabin Bed with Drawers, Guildford, Surrey

Built-in Childrens Cabin Bed with Drawers, Guildford, Surrey

This cabin bed was built to replace an existing one that could not be positioned under the window illustrated because of it’s size.

With the cabin bed being under the window, the space in the room was put to much better use, and good use of space was also achieved by incorporating drawers, cupboards and a slide-out bookcase into the cabin bed itself.

Positioning the batons

Positioning the batons

Positioning the batons

Positioning the batons

The initial framework for the drawers is set out

The initial framework for the drawers is set out

First of all, the batons that will support the built-in cabin bed are fixed to the wall. Once these are in place, the main slat rail can be positioned between the two walls at either end of the bed. With this in place, the framework for the drawers can be set out and placed. It is much easier to build the drawer carcass first of all, rather than later on when all the slats are fixed in place.

Drawers are fitted into the carcass

Drawers are fitted into the carcass

The slats, front and sides of the bed are positioned

The slats, front and sides of the bed are positioned

A small ladder will be fixed to the sliding bookcase

A small ladder will be fixed to the sliding bookcase

With the drawer carcass in place, the drawers could then be fitted using 450mm ball-bearing telescopic runners.

Next were the ends of the bed, which were fixed to the batons initially set out, before fitting the front of the bed into place. This had a cut out section to allow the user of the bed easy access. Below the cut-out was to be a small ladder made of pine which was attached to a small bookcase on castor’s that was able to roll in and out of  a compartment under the cabin bed. This worked well as good use of space as well as adding a little novelty!

The small bookcase and ladder on castors

The small bookcase and ladder on castors

The cupboard (or hiding place!)

The cupboard (or hiding place!)

The drawers next to the ladder

The drawers next to the ladder

Cabin beds… a great solution to space saving for grown ups, a great space station for kids!… or ship… or hideout… or cave…  :)

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Built-in Fitted Bookcase and Media Centre

Built-in Fitted Bookcase and Media Centre

Built-in Fitted Bookcase and Media Centre, Godalming, Surrey

This job was a real pleasure to do.

The customer had nearly finished the build of the house, which used to be a bungalow,  now transformed into a superb, modern open-plan dwelling, and this MDF and softwood floor-to-ceiling Audio/TV cabinet was one of the last items to be completed before the family moved in.

As you can see in the picture to the left, the cabinet has a multitude of compartments, all measured and designed by the customer to fit around the objects and equipment they were intending to place in it… can you guess where the quite substantial TV will be going?!

Other than the TV, the media centre will accommodate an array of equipment including speakers, amps, sub-woofer, DVD or blue ray player, and perhaps some books and a nice lamp on one of the curved shelves at the end :)

Batons are fixed to the wall

Batons are fixed to the wall

The curved base goes down

The curved base goes down

The curved base goes down

The curved base goes down

After marking out on the wall where all the shelves will go, the batons that will hold them in place are fixed to the wall.

One of the customers requirements for this job was that no batons were to be seen, because they wanted the shelving to appear as if it was floating. This was achieved by using 25mm baton, and 50mm thick shelving, into which 25mm grooves were centrally cut along the relevant edges, allowing the shelf to be slotted over the baton, therefore concealing it.

Once the batons were on the wall, the next thing was to lay the base of the unit onto the floor, carefully working out the radius of the curved end of the unit, which was to be projected upwards to the ceiling and plumb up perfectly with all the other curves of that end of the built-in media centre.

The top of the unit is fixed to the ceiling

The top of the unit is fixed to the ceiling

Bottom and top fixed in place

Bottom and top fixed in place

Bottom and top fixed in place with laser accuracy

Bottom and top fixed in place with laser accuracy

Next, the top of the unit was fixed to the ceiling, using a laser level to achieve plumb accurately.

Building the shelving up from the base

Building the shelving up from the base

Shelving grooved over the concealed batons

Shelving grooved over the concealed batons

Shelving fixed to the wall with concealed baton

Shelving fixed to the wall with concealed baton

The Media Centre starts to take shape

The Media Centre starts to take shape

All the curved ends are now cut and fitted

All the curved ends are now cut and fitted

Shelving now completed, and softwood lipping is attached

Shelving now completed, and softwood lipping is attached

With the top and base of the Media Centre now in place, it was time to start filling in between with the shelving.

This was fairly laborious, as each shelf and each upright was formed of 25mm MDF laminated together to make 50mm thick pieces, which then had to be individually scribed to the wall. Once each piece was scribed, it then needed to be rebated to slot over the batons that would support it.

In addition to this, a further four pieces would need the curve cut from the end of the shelf, which needed to be absolutely plumb with the floor and ceiling curves.

Once this was all done, the next stage was to begin fixing on the softwood lipping to the front edges of the unit. This would conceal the unattractive MDF edge, and create a better surface to be decorated. This is when the Media Centre really started to look impressive!

Softwood lipping being attached

Softwood lipping being attached

Lipping slotted to allow softwood to curve

Lipping slotted to allow softwood to curve

Lipping complete, Media Centre ready to go!

Lipping complete, Media Centre ready to go!

Getting the solid pine lipping to flex around the curves of the unit was achieved by cutting slots into the back of the lipping, leaving 3mm uncut on the face side. This allowed the timber to flex easily, and the slots would be filled prior to decoration.

Floor to ceiling Media Centre

Floor to ceiling Media Centre

Built-in Media Centre, end view

Built-in Media Centre, end view

Something that is really pleasing about this job is that because it will be used for TV, movies and music, it will quite often be the centre of attention, and I really think it looks the part! :)

Built-in Fitted Bookcase and Media Centre, Godalming, Surrey

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February 22nd, 2011 by admin
Built in Fitted Wardrobe, Guildford, Surrey

Built in Fitted Wardrobe, Guildford, Surrey

Built in Fitted Wardrobe, Guildford, Surrey

This was a softwood (pine) and MDF floor to ceiling wardrobe with two sliding doors.

Inside was a single shelf, 1.8 metres high, with hanging space below, divided into two. The central divider gave the shelf strength and stopped it sagging over time.

The full height sliding doors on this fitted wardrobe were plain MDF, but some pleasant detail was added by fixing rectangles of small beading to them.

There is a pelmet at the top of the wardrobe to conceal the sliding door runners, whereas the sliding doors themselves are simply scribed to the wall and the skirting.

There was coving around the ceiling as well, but instead of cutting it away to make space for the wardrobe, I just scribed the timber around it. This way, if the wardrobe is ever taken out in the future, there won’t be any nasty holes to be patched up in either the skirting or the coving.

Batons fitted for shelves and divider

Batons fitted for shelves and divider

The divider is fitted

The divider is fitted

The shelf is fitted onto the divider, levelled by laser

The shelf is fitted onto the divider, levelled by laser

Marking out is always first, and then the batons are fixed to the wall, to which the MDF shelf and divider are fixed.

This is done using a laser level, a great tool to have!

The sliding doors are cut and fitted

The sliding doors are cut and fitted

Finally, the rectangles of softwood beading are fixed to the sliding doors

Finally, the rectangles of softwood beading are fixed to the sliding doors

After a great deal of attention to getting the top and bottom tracks of the sliding doors level and parallel, the pelmet can be fixed on to conceal the top track, and the wardrobe doors can be cut, scribed and hung.

Then finally the plain doors can be smartened up by fixing rectangles of beading to them.

A nice job, and a great use of space! :)

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February 22nd, 2011 by admin
Built in Fitted Wardrobe, Woking, Surrey

Built in Fitted Wardrobe, Woking, Surrey

Built in Fitted Wardrobe, Woking, Surrey

This job was for a customer who had just moved into the house, but didn’t have room for a wardrobe that had hinged doors, and needed a lot of storage space for clothes.

In this case the solution was to use sliding doors, with hinged cupboards above. They were to be painted, so it made sense to save money and use cheap materials like softwood and MDF.

As you can see in the picture to the left, this wardrobe has three sliding doors, with six hinged doors above them. It was 2.8 metres in total length. The large blank sliding doors were brought into proportion by fixing rectangles of bead to them, giving the effect of smaller doors matching the ones above.

Shelving and first stage of framework

Shelving and first stage of framework

The upper doors are fitted

The upper doors are fitted

The sliding doors are fitted and the beading is fixed to all doors

The sliding doors are fitted and the beading is fixed to all doors

First of all, was to mark out where the shelving was to be placed. These were for folded items such as shirts or jumpers (blokes stuff!) After that, the sides of the wardrobe needed to be scribed to the wall. This can be fairly time consuming if the house is old, which this one was! The walls were all over the place!

Once the wardrobe sides were scribed they were fixed to the wall using softwood baton. The shelves could now be cut and fitted into place including the main shelf along the total length to which the sliding door gear would fixed. A runner was then fitted directly below the top track of  the sliding door, to which the bottom track would be fixed. These needed to be absolutely horizontally parallel.

The upper doors were then fitted using cabinet hinges, and adjusted accordingly to even up the gaps between them.

The hanging rail was fitted next, which ran the entire length of the wardrobe, and was safely supported at intervals using brackets fixed to the shelf above. No-one like dresses in a mess on the floor!

Last of all, the sliding doors were cut and fitted, making sure there were the correct overlaps and stops, before the beading was then pinned on. With the beading pinned on, this fitted wardrobe really came together well.

A built-in fitted wardrobe is one of the best ways to use space in a bedroom, every last centimetre is put to good use. And there is the added bonus of not having to dust the top of them all the time! :)

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Multi-level decking
Multi-level decking

Multi-level decking – Pirbright, Surrey

This job was quite satisfying.

Decking is a fantastic solution to making a pleasant space out of a part of your garden that is lumpy and uneven, and that was exactly the case here.

It was built from right outside the back door of this house in Pirbright all the way to the shed, angled at 45° to the house onto the grass, and stepped up around the corner of the house.

In this case, plywood with a softwood grain was used for the finished surface rather than the normal decking timber, and in doing this, we saved about three quarters of the price!

This will look just fine when it has been stained and preserved, and besides, it would be very easy to take the ply up and lay decking timber, should it be required sometime in the future, perhaps when the economy picks up!

Initial stages of the framework

Initial stages of the framework

Initial stages of the framework

Initial stages of the framework

Initial stages of the framework

Initial stages of the framework

Above are some shots of the initial stages of the decking, which is to fix the outer joists of the frame to whatever you have available that is secure, ensuring that they are level as you fix them.

Once they are fixed, the common joists can then be fixed between them, and in theory, should be level providing you were accurate in fitting your initial joists.

Common joists fitted in first section

Common joists fitted in first section

Common joists fitted in first section

Common joists fitted in first section

First section now supported on bricks and noggins fitted

First section now supported on bricks and noggins fitted

Sometimes though, the timber can be a little bent which can lead to the decking being out of level. To counter this, i fitted the joists with the bend hanging down, then later they could be wedged into level from the ground when the framework is supported on bricks. The noggins also add strength and rigidity.

Beginning the framework for the lower section

Beginning the framework for the lower section

Building the second section around a tree stump

Building the second section around a tree stump

Second section completed, leveled, supported and noggined

Second section completed, leveled, supported and noggined

Quite a bit of digging was involved before i could begin the second section, which was a triangle and around 150mm lower than the first. This was to ensure that the framework, once level, wasn’t touching the ground and rot would be prevented.

Luckily for me (not!), the 8 or 9 wheelbarrows of earth which had to be removed was around an old tree stump, and I lost count of the amount of roots I came across that need to be sawn off! There were a few swear-words, but i think all the neighbours were out. If they weren’t, their windows were closed!

The framework had to be built around the tree stump, which was cut off at the same level as the top of the framework, so that the ply could be kept level.

The third section went more smoothly

The third section went more smoothly

All sections completed, level and secure

All sections completed, level and secure

The next step is laying the plywood boards

The next step is laying the plywood boards

Thankfully the third section, which was the same level and adjacent to the second section was a lot more simple to do because it was basically another square. There was a bit of trimming around the drain to do near the back door but other than that, it was quite straight-forward. Once it was all leveled and supported, it was time to start laying the boards.

The tree stump was ground down

The tree stump was ground down

A plastic membrane covers the stump

A plastic membrane covers the stump

The boarding continues with the stump leveled off and fixed to

The boarding continues with the stump leveled off and fixed to

That tree stump hadn’t finished with me yet.

It was poking up higher than top of the framework, so it would’ve interfered with the ply boarding. I took an angle-grinder to it and ground it down to the same level as the framework. It seemed like quite a good idea to use something that hindered my structure as part of my structure! Before I layed any ply on it, I covered the stump with a piece of plastic membrane to prevent the stump from drawing moisture from the ground and depositing it on the underneath of the ply, possibly causing it to rot.

I then carried on laying the boards, using the stump to fix to.

Decking complete!

Decking complete!

Decking complete, a great improvement!

Decking complete, a great improvement!

The good thing about a job like this is that the easy bit laying the boards, was the last bit!

Tree stump aside, this job went really well, and will look really great when stained up.

All we need to do now is wait for summer, and then its time for barbecues! :)

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Continuous Spiral Handrail in Maple

Continuous Spiral Handrail in Maple

Continuous Carved Spiral Handrail in Maple – West Sussex

This is a job i was very pleased with. It took a lot of patience and frequent checks to make sure it was shaping up correctly, but the end result was extremely satisfying.

It was for a customer in West Sussex, who had bought a plot which had two separate buildings, the main house, and an annex a short distance away from the house. What he did was pretty fantastic, because he joined the two together to make one big house!

In fact, the Maple Handrail i’m describing here was for one of two staircases that would eventually be in the house, the other staircase I built from scratch, and can be seen HERE.

Original iron banisters to be removed

Original iron banisters to be removed

Original iron banisters to be removed

Original iron banisters to be removed

Original iron banisters to be removed

Original iron banisters to be removed

Above are some photos of the original iron banisters and hardwood handrail, and in my opinion, are extremely outdated and quite ugly. You might notice in the third photo that the spiral string (side of the staircase) has some awkward looking angles on it where the straight sections meet the spiral section.

Clamping pieces of timber onto the string to smooth out curve lines

Clamping pieces of timber onto the string to smooth out curve lines

Clamping pieces of timber onto the string to smooth out curve lines

Clamping pieces of timber onto the string to smooth out curve lines

Smoothed out curves ready to take baserail and handrail

Smoothed out curves ready to take baserail and handrail

After smoothing out the awkward-looking angles by sanding the convex edges and filling the concave edges, the spiral string was ready to use as a template for the new maple baserail and handrail.

Many people don’t realise that spiral baserail and handrail, although only about 30mm/60mm x 80mm in profile once finished, must be constructed from much larger lumps of timber to account for the curving. In this case, the lumps were around 120mm thick x 200mm wide x 650mm long, and the new spiral maple baserail and handrail each required 4 pieces of timber this size to be carved by hand and joined end-to-end.

Oversize lumps of timber being carved spiral, but squared profile.

Oversize lumps of timber being carved spiral, but squared profile.

Spiral carved sections being joined in square profile stage.

Spiral carved sections being joined in square profile stage.

Square profile carving now complete for baserail

Square profile carving now complete for baserail

I began with the baserail, and each section of this had to be carved into its spiral shape, but square in profile. That is to say that no moulding or grooves were yet to be applied to the timber.

This was because once i had the whole baserail carved into a square profile, it would be much easier to uniform the finished profile using a router and other power tools.

The actual carving of each section meant that i continuously had to carve away some timber from the underside of the section, try it onto the section of the string that it would eventually be fixed to, carve some away, try it on again, and repeat until the underside of the section was exactly the same shape as the string. (To ensure i had exactly the right shapes for both the baserail and the handrail, i used the string as the template for the baserail, and the baserail as the template for the handrail) Once the underside was perfect, the sides and top of the section could be carved square to the underside. I don’t mind admitting that this was a laborious process that took a lot of patience, and I lost count of the times that I had electricians, plumbers and other tradesmen all staring at what i was doing in disbelief! :)

Carving the groove for the spindles into the baserail

Carving the groove for the spindles into the baserail

Fine chiseling the groove for the spindles into the baserail after routing

Fine chiseling the groove for the spindles into the baserail after routing

Finished baserail with moulding and grooves

Finished baserail with moulding and grooves

Once I had all the sections of both the baserail and handrail carved spiral and in square profile, I was able to begin routing out the grooves for the spindles to be located into, as well as the moulded profiles.

Routing out the holes for the connectors in the handrail

Routing out the holes for the connectors in the handrail

Routing out the holes for the connectors in the handrail

Routing out the holes for the connectors in the handrail

Routing the spindle groove onto the underside of the handrail

Routing the spindle groove onto the underside of the handrail

I created a jig on my router to accurately machine the bevel on the sides of the handrail

I created a jig on my router to accurately machine the bevel on the sides of the handrail

I created a jig on my router to accurately machine the bevel on the sides of the handrail

I created a jig on my router to accurately machine the bevel on the sides of the handrail

I used an angle-grinder to shape the top of the handrail

I used an angle-grinder to shape the top of the handrail free-handedly using diminishing grits

Fine-sanding the whole handrail

Fine-sanding the whole handrail

Fine-sanding the whole handrail

Fine-sanding the whole handrail

Handrail fits perfectly onto the baserail :)

Handrail fits perfectly onto the baserail

Routing the mortice holes into the newels

Routing the mortice holes into the newels

With the spiral sections of both the baserail and handrail complete, the next thing to do was to mortice the newel posts for them to be fitted to.

These newels had a ‘spigot’, or peg on the end of them, which was to be inserted into the stub of the old newels that had been chopped down to a specific height.

These stubs had to have 50mm diameter holes drilled into the top of them to take the spigot of the new maple newel posts, and i can tell you that those old western red cedar newels were hard as rock, my poor drill could barely cope! :-D

With the newels fitted, i was able to fit the spiral handrail, as well as the straight sections upstairs

With the newels fitted, i was able to fit the spiral handrail, as well as the straight sections upstairs

Spindles can now be fitted and it really starts to take shape!

Spindles can now be fitted and it really starts to take shape!

As the spindles were fitted into the spiral section, each spacer between the spindles had to be carved to suit the spiral!

As the spindles were fitted into the spiral section, each spacer between the spindles had to be carved to suit the spiral!

The spindles really make it look special :)

The spindles really make it look special

A huge improvement on the old iron banisters

A huge improvement on the old iron banisters

Quite an impressive sight to see as you enter the house, I think!

Quite an impressive sight to see as you enter the house, I think!

Although this job was hugely time consuming and very fiddly at times, i thoroughly enjoyed it. The customer was a really nice guy, and always doing what he could to help out, and that makes a big difference on a job like this. (There was also always a lot of tea, coffee and chocolate biscuits to be had! ;) )

It’s a job that i’m extremely proud of, and i’m sure that my customer was as pleased as i was with it, and that is what it’s all about!!

Feel free to get in touch with me if you’d like something similar done for you, or even if you’d like a bit of advice. I’m always happy to help :)

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December 13th, 2009 by admin
Newly fitted bannisters

Newly fitted banisters

Newly fitted banisters in St Johns, Woking

As a carpenter and joiner, it’s always a pleasure to bring wooden furniture and household features up to date.

What you see to the left is the newly fitted banisters that replaced some that were fairly out of date.

In this case, the square newel posts were kept as they were, and we installed new handrail, base-rail, spindles and newel caps, which were sourced by the customer from Wickes in St Johns, Woking.

Once i have met with the customer and advised them on what their options are, with replacement handrail jobs,  I usually suggest that the customer gets hold of the materials themselves, because that way, they get what they want and they know that they are paying the right price.

Currently, i am hearing from a lot people who would like to have their staircase modernized. When house were being built in the 70s and 80s, it was then fashionable to have the horizontal boarding fitted between the newel posts, but nowadays it isn’t so desirable. Another concern, particularly for this customer, is that their young toddlers could be very tempted to use the horizontal banisters as a climbing frame, which could very easily end in tears!

The Process

70s/80s horizontal bannisters to be removed

70s/80s horizontal banisters to be removed

Old bannisters being removed

Old banisters being removed

Old bannisters now removed and old holes filled

Old banisters now removed and old holes filled

The first thing to do was to put down all the dust sheets to protect the carpet from the majority of the dust.

Next was to remove the existing newel caps and cut out the handrail and balustrading using a handsaw. Once this was done, the tops of the newels needed to be prepared to fit the recess of the new newel caps.

I used angle brackets to fix the new handrail to the existing newels, which had to be rebated into both the newels and the new handrail, so that they wouldn’t be seen once the rebates were filled.

As always with old staircases, over time, the newels had shrunken out of square, so careful measurements and recording of angles had to be made in order to cut the ends of the handrails and base-rails so that they joined nicely to the newel posts.

Once the new handrails and base-rails were fitted, i used two part filler to make good the small holes and cracks around where i had filled the old holes with timber, and sanded everything flat to give a good surface to be decorated.

Spindles now installed

Spindles now installed

Next was fitting the spindles, which required calculating the equal spaces between each, and then cutting the spacers to the right size.

This is one of my favourite parts of this kind of job, because once you have the spacers and the spindles all cut to the right length and angle, fitting them is a very quick job, providing you have a nail gun (which i do!). If you only have a hammer and nails, than it will take about 6 or 7 times as long, but in comparison to the rest of the job, which can be quite strenuous and laborious, it is a real breeze, which is all the nicer when it is the last part of the job!

This job took a bit longer than a normal working day, but I stayed a bit longer in this case to get it finished, as leaving it unfinished wouldn’t be safe for the customers young children.

The customers very kindly let me work on their banisters while they were out, so as to let me get on with it as efficiently as possible. The job was finished within the timescale quoted, and all in all, everyone was happy!

A nice job :)

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Bespoke pine HiFi Unit

Finished Bespoke pine Hi Fi Unit

This bespoke pine Hi Fi A/V cabinet was for a friend of mine, James.

It started when he and his wife came over for dinner one evening, and they commented on a piece of furniture we have at home that is quite distressed and has a very rustic finish.

He also showed me some photos from a magazine of coffee table that had some unusual joinery characteristics, which he said he’d like matched on the Hi Fi cabinet he wanted me to make, these were where on the corners of the unit, you could see the mortice and tenon joints that connect the components of the cabinet together. These being on show, proves that the unit is of good quality, and made of solid wood, rather than veneered chipboard or mdf.

Mortice & Tenon close-up

Mortice & Tenon close-up

The timber was supplied by a local merchant to the sizes I required, and i was then able to begin gluing all the panels together for the sides and top, as well as the doors, and while they were drying, all the mortices, tenons, grooves and rebates could be applied to the various other components like the ring beam, bottom rails and legs.

Seeing as James was quite clear about what he wanted, I advised that when it came to all the ironmongery, the best thing would be to source it himself, as that way he’d be able to get exactly what he wanted for the price he wanted. I think he used the supplier Ironmongery Direct. They were able to deliver the hinges and handles etc to me directly, and once they arrived, i was able to fit them to the cabinet.

Assembling the cabinet components

Assembling the cabinet components

Testing stains and waxes

Testing stains and waxes

Assembled HiFi Cabinet before stain or wax

Assembled Hi Fi Cabinet before stain or wax

Before assembling the cabinet, i spent around 2 hours wire brushing the pine components to achieve the same rustic aesthetic as the piece of furniture James first saw at my house. This basically removes the softer part of the wood grain and creates a more coarse feel to the timber and once the finish has been applied, a more rustic effect is achieved. After this, I spent more time testing a lot of different stains and waxes to achieve the right colour.

Below are a few pictures which are a kind of  “The Making Of…”

Glued Panels Drying

Glued Panels Drying

Grooved, morticed & rebated legs

Grooved, morticed & rebated legs

Full length rear bottom rail

Full length rear bottom rail will eventually support the backing

Rebating the panels

Rebating the panels

Funky random ventilation holes

Funky random ventilation holes

Finished and delivered

Finished and delivered

The final touch to this cabinet was the 10mm thick toughened glass shelves for the Hi Fi separates to sit on. On the inside of the left and right pedestals, we used the Tonk adjustable shelving system, which allows you to adjust the height of your shelves in increments of about 20mm.

I only installed the toughened glass when i actually delivered the cabinet to James, and it was a fantastic finale to this piece. The chunky glass complimented the style and proportions of the rest of the cabinet really well.

I’m also very glad the glass fitted, which it did perfectly, phew!

I really enjoyed doing this cabinet, and would love to do something similar again. If you are interested in having your very own Hi Fi cabinet, or any other cabinet for that matter, made to your unique design in a style and size that matches your home’s interior perfectly, drop me a line!

Please feel free to leave a comment as well!

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November 29th, 2009 by admin
This was a really nice oak staircase to do.  It was for an impressive new build house in West Byfleet, and the client had the build planned out very well, which always helps in acheiving the desired result.  This was in fact 2 two staircases as the house has three floors, the flight shown to the left was from the ground floor, leading up to the first floor. You can just see the second staircase directly above this one which leads upto the second floor. The double bullnose and twin monkey-tail handrails really make for a spectacular entrance through the front door into the main hallway.

This was a really nice oak staircase to do. It was for an impressive new build house in West Byfleet, and the client had the build planned out very well, which always helps in acheiving the desired result. This was in fact 2 two staircases as the house has three floors, the flight shown above was from the ground floor, leading up to the first floor. You can just see the second staircase directly above this one which leads upto the second floor. The double bullnose and twin monkey-tail handrails really make for a spectacular entrance through the front door into the main hallway.

This image shows a view of both oak cut string staircases from the top floor, and from here, you can also see the curved oak gallery handrail. In case you're wondering, the white blob is a pendant lampshade suspedned from the ceiling above!

This image shows a view of both oak cut string staircases from the top floor, and from here, you can also see the curved oak gallery handrail. In case you

Cut string oak staircases - view from ground I

Cut string oak staircases - view from ground I

Cut-string oak staircases - view from ground II

Cut-string oak staircases - view from ground II

Oak cut-string staircases - view from first floor

Oak cut-string staircases - view from first floor

Cut-string oak staircase - before assembly

Cut-string oak staircase - before assembly

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